Archive for the ‘Craft beer’ Category

Happy Repeal Day

Monday, December 5th, 2011

Today is the seventy-eight anniversary of Repeal. I am re-posting something I wrote three years ago for the seventy-fifth anniversary. It was posted on my pre-wordpress blog so I am not sure how many people read it.

Prohibition happened because of deep ambivalence in American society over the use and abuse of alcohol. In 1920 the solution to these problems appeared to be the cessation of the production, distribution, and sale of alcohol. Thirteen years later Americans decided they had been wrong and allowed, once again, alcohol to be legally made and sold.

Repeal represented a turning point in American views of social behavior and habits. Since 1933 Prohibition has served as a negative reference point for any attempts to regulate or control problematic or unhealthy behavior. Reformers seeking legalization of other psychoactive substances such as marijuana use the nation’s experience with Prohibition to underscore the lack of wisdom in prohibiting other drugs.

Prohibition and Repeal did not eradicate our nation’s ambivalence about alcohol. As a country we are not alone in this ambivalence. Most modern states have a similarly complicated relationship with alcoholic beverages. Most governments receive some revenue benefits from taxing liquor while they must also deal with the health, safety, and public disorder problems that result from the misuse of alcohol.

From the liquor industry’s stand point the history of Prohibition and Repeal is a mixed blessing. They are always able to refer to Prohibition as the undesired end point of any attempts to increase regulation of the industry. They have been able to resume their role as financial partners in the federal government, an activity that continues to give them respectability. However they are ever vigilant in resisting any further sacrifices in the form of increased taxes. They are obviously aware, both from their own experiences as well as the experiences of the tobacco industry, that they are not invulnerable to another prohibition.

American responses to alcohol use and abuse have come in waves or cycles. From 1933 until the early 1970s American society increasingly saw alcohol consumption as a normal part of middle class social life. The low consumption rates that persisted until baby boomers became old enough to drink may have encouraged this benign view of liquor. The liquor industry as well as the medical field and academics all participated in the individualization and medicalization of alcohol problems.

In the 1970s alcohol consumption levels rose and a more public health approach to alcohol problems emerged. We are still living in this era. Public health advocates along with neo-prohibitionists had several successes including warning labels, the increase in the minimum drinking age, and a tax increase for beer. However they have not really moved forward in their attempts to restrict television advertising and drunk driving rates have not decreased for several years.

What remains to be seen is whether the pendulum will swing more severely one way or the other? Will bad economic times lead to increased or decreased drinking? Globally as the world’s population ages there seems to be a decrease in drinking. Less drinking usually leads to less negative consequences for society which in turn can lead to looser attitudes about drinking. However, at least in America, the baby boomlet could certainly impact consumption levels which might swing the pendulum towards stricter regulations and greater societal concern. The liquor industry is much better organized to withstand a regulatory or prohibitory onslaught than they were when Prohibition started.

 

Alcohol Regulation

Tuesday, July 5th, 2011

Another interesting panel at the ADHS conference was “Regulating Alcohol in the 20th Century.” W. Scott Haine spoke on “Vichy’s Greatest Victory: Liquor Licensing and Urban Renewal in Occupied France, 1940-1944 and its enduring legacy.” The Vichy government waged a battle against cafes and aperitifs. The government passed seven different laws concerning liquor during the war. A 1943 zoning law sought to cure under population that the government felt was caused by alcoholism and the social life of the cafe. They wanted to move people from the city to the country. Interestingly when the Vichy government fell, the Resistance governments continued the same restrictive zoning and social policies.

Dan Malleck’s talk was on “Viewing and rev-viewing the public space: Ontario, 1927-1944.” Following the end of Prohibition in Ontario, the Liquor Control Board of Ontario licensed hotels to provide alcohol. Hotels were the only place people could drink. He provided very interesting maps that showed both the establishments that were licensed and those that weren’t as well as the surrounding neighborhoods.

William Rorabaugh spoke on “U.S. Alcohol Control after Prohibition”. The paper was really about the three-tier system of liquor production, distribution, and retail sale. This system grew out of the 21st amendment and is still the basic system of organization for alcoholic beverages. Washington is one of eighteen states that have a State Liquor Control Board.  Recently Costco has sued to be allowed to bypass the three-tier system and sell directly to consumers.

The three-tier system works very well for large alcohol producers and has created a powerful trade association, the National Beer Wholesalers Association.  Some craft brewers feel that the system prevents them from having equal access to shelf space and widespread distribution. At the same time, other craft brewers who have expanded nationally are pulling back. Dogfish Head Brewing, located in Delaware, pulled out of four states because the brewer was concerned with meeting demand while maintaining quality. Several other craft brewers have taken similar action. Voluntarily giving up shelf space and market share is not something that either regional or large brewers would have done during the intensely competitive atmosphere of the late 20th century.

Craft beers, however, are a niche product and withdrawing from some markets could increase demand for the product. Since the brewers have framed their market withdrawals within a context of a determination to maintain quality, these actions could also increase the commitment that craft beer drinkers have to the product.

For more on brewers withdrawing from markets  click here.

Connecticut Trail of Taxes

Friday, July 1st, 2011

The June/July issue of Yankee Brew News had two stories about Connecticut brewing that I think illuminate the shape of the craft brewing industry today.  On May 11, the Connecticut Senate passed a bill establishing the Connecticut Brewery Trail. In June, the House passed it and the trail will go into effect today. Connecticut already has a wine trail. The marketing of breweries as tourist sites is an important part of the development of craft beer.  As a niche market with deeply loyal customers, the chance for these customers to see where their favorite beer is produced as well as acquire paraphernalia from that brewery is very appealing.

Also today, the liquor industry in the state faces an increase in the sale tax as well as a floor tax that will apply to what retail stores already have in inventory. Yankee Brew News claims that these new taxes represent a 20 percent increase. Many other produces are also facing tax increases including tobacco. For more on these taxes click here.

Craft beer is a highly fashionable upscale product that also holds a special place in both the federal and state government’s treasuries. I have been surprised that more states have not already turned to alcohol beverages to shore up their deficit budgets.

Containing Beer

Wednesday, June 22nd, 2011

On Saturday, I had dinner at Egg, a great restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. With the meal, I ordered a Narragansett Bock, 16 oz., and my husband had a Sly Fox Pale Ale. The restaurant didn’t have any beer on tap.  The two beers came in cans which surprised me. I know that some craft brewers have been producing beer in cans and Oskar Blues Brewery only produces beer in cans and has done so since 2002. ( For an article about canned beer and session beers, another trend in craft brewing, click here.)

Narragansett is an old brewery that has been recreated as a craft beer. At one time, Narragansett, based in Rhode Island, was a top selling beer in New England. Falstaff Beer bought the company in 1966. The brewery closed in 1981. In 2005, Rhode Island investors purchased the brand.

Usually when I go out to eat, I drink whatever beer is on tap and the same is true when I go to a bar.  I probably retain the negative association of bad beer with cans. The Narragansett Bock was okay but there really wasn’t anything special about it. My husband said the same thing about the Sly Fox.

To really evaluate if drinking from a can makes a difference in taste, I would have to drink the bock from a bottle or on tap and then compare.

A few weeks before the dinner at Egg, we went to Yankee stadium to see the Yankees play the Red Sox. Our seats were not that great and far away from any food or beer. It was hot so I got a Miller Lite – only 110 calories – in a plastic bottle. Miller Lite is a terrible beer and mostly tastes cold and wet. It would be impossible for the plastic to make it worse.

It is funny that soda comes in all different containers and no one thinks that   from a can instead of a bottle makes it taste worse. The new cans that craft brewers are using are not supposed to affect the taste at all and are lighter and easier to recycle.

I still think that the association of bad, macro beer with cans will limit how many craft brewers embrace brewing in cans.

Beer Cookery

Friday, May 13th, 2011

While doing some research for my new book, I came across a review, in the New York Times of Beer Cookery by Michael Harrison. It was  published in 1954. “From England comes, not so oddly, “Beer Cookery.” There recipes are inclined to be of the squeeze-of-this and a pinch-of-that variety. They sacrifice accuracy to breeziness. And I believe than most people are looking for improved techniques rather than warmed-over witticisms.”

Obviously, the reviewer did not like the book very much. I thought it was interesting that the cookbook is from 1954 since, at least in America, we think of that period as the dark days  before craft beer appeared. Cooking with Bud is not appealing. If anyone has a copy of the book let me know.

The Interview

Thursday, March 3rd, 2011

Here  are two links to my interview with Barry Eva: Interview with Barry Eva. If that doesn’t work  try this: http://www.blogtalkradio.com/across-the-pond

76 Years of Beer Cans

Monday, January 24th, 2011

Today is the 76th anniversary of the beer can. In To commemorate the occasion, I am posting an excerpt from Brewing Battles: A History of American Beer (Algora, 20070), pages 106-107.

Krueger can. Photo courtesy of Brewery Collectibles Club of America.

The American Can Company had developed a viable beer can prior to Repeal. The company lined the can with enamel, thus earning the designation “keg-lined.” In 1933, the Gottfried Krueger Brewing Company of Newark, New Jersey engaged American Can to produce cans. The can company produced a trial run of two thousand Krueger Special Beer cans which contained 3.2 percent beer, the alcoholic content allowed by the modification of the Volstead Act. The test market approved of the taste of beer in cans, and Krueger went on to produce a line of canned beer which the company put on sale in Richmond, Virginia on January 24, 1935.[1]

The Gottfried Krueger Brewing Company dated from 1852. Its original name was Braun & Laible. By 1865 the name had changed to Hill & Krueger; Gottfried Krueger took over in 1875. In 1889, the brewery became part of the U.S. Brewing Company, Ltd of New York, a British brewing syndicate. After Repeal, Krueger reopened. A regional brewery, despite its’ brief moment of fame for canned beer, Krueger’s closed in 1960. Narragansett purchased the brand; when Falstaff purchased Narragansett, Krueger became one of its products.[2]

By September of 1935 American Can faced competition. Both National Can and Continental Can began producing lined cans. Crown Cork and Seal produced a cap that sealed Continental’s cans. American’s keg-lined cans required a special opener. By 1936 Continental felt sufficient confidence in its product to announce an advertising campaign in 200 newspapers representing a market of 193 cities.[3]

Both Pabst and Schlitz got on the can bandwagon early, but other brewers remained skeptical. By 1941 only 187 of the 507 United States brewers used cans. The light weight of the cans, which reduced shipping costs, provided further advantages to the national brewers.[4] By the late twentieth century beer cans had simultaneously become highly collectible as well as a major source of environmental pollution. Cans became the focus of brewers’ advertising as the trend towards off premises consumption intensified. With increased package sales, brewers changed their advertising approach. Not only did they have to promote beer as a healthy, family product, but the packaging had to sell this theme as well and be appealing in its own right.

For another take on the anniversary of the beer can, see http://ladiesocb.com/blog/happy-birthday-beer-can/


[1] Downard, Dictionary 64; “Beer Can History: The World’s First Beer Can,” Brewery Collectibles Club of America, http://www.bcca.com/history/overview4.php (accessed  July 17, 2007).

[2] Downard, Dictionary, 105.

[3] “Beer Listed and Canned,” Time, September 23, 1935; Baron, Brewed In America, 327.

[4] Downard, Dictionary, 44; Baron, Brewed in America, 246.

Beer Labels

Sunday, October 17th, 2010

witchs-wit-87x300

I wrote this post in December of 2008 before I had this word press blog. It was part of a series of posts I did about the seventy-fifth anniversary of Repeal. I am reposting it because I just read a blog about the label on Lost Abbey’s  Witch’s Wit. Tenured Radical is circulating another blogger’s concern about the graphic of a woman being burnt at the stake while a crowd of men watches with rapt attention. Of course, the picture on the label is very small  but I am sure it looks worse when you actually see it. TR and others find it offensive.

December 2 2008

The Road From Repeal: Labels and Advertising

I wanted to write about aspects of beer advertising in the seventy-five years since Repeal but I wasn’t exactly sure what I wanted to say. I also wanted to touch on labels since they became a regulatory issue in the late twentieth century. While thinking about the topic I came across an excellent article about beer labels in All About Beer (no link available). Dave Gausepohl, a breweriana collector, examines the history of labels and describes the information labels contain.

Currently all beer bottles and cans contain a government warning about the dangers of alcohol use and abuse. Post-Prohibition, as beer consumption shifted from on-premises to off-premises, primarily the home, the packaging of beer became more important. Ultimately what the container looked like was an integral part of the product’s advertising and marketing.

Beer labels have a UPC code, dating information, the government warning and in some cases, alcohol content, but they do not list ingredients. Brewers, unlike most other producers of edible, consumable products, do not have to disclose what they have used to make the beer. They also do not have to say anything about how many calories the beer has.

What the beer bottle or can looks like is part of advertising but since Prohibition the major emphasis for beer marketing has been radio and television. Brewers gained an immediate and lasting advantage over distillers who, until recently have lived under a voluntary ban against advertising on television. Despite this free gift, post-Prohibition brewers were circumspect in their marketing because they feared a return of Prohibition. This self-restraint lasted to a good degree until the 1970′s and the onset of the “beer wars”.  The intense competition among the top tier brewers fueled by the influx of advertising dollars from Miller Brewing and its parent company Philip Morris led to a decrease in the propriety of beer television ads.

Prohibitionists never went away and one of their ongoing battles has been to limit brewers access to advertising. The Center for Science in the Public Interest, a self-styled consumer and public health advocacy organization, has a Alcohol Priorities Project  which seeks to “promote a comprehensive, prevention-oriented approach to the role of alcohol in society by addressing alcohol advertising, excise taxes, changes in product labeling, and other population-based policy reforms.” In August, the Center sent a petition “signed by 60 Division I presidents, 240 athletic directors and 101 football and basketball coaches” urging the NCAA to prohibit beer advertising during college games. The NCAA declined to change its policies.  George Hacker, director of the Alcohol Policies Project, was extremely disappointed and commented, “In contrast, the NCAA rejects advertising for distilled spirits, most wine, sports wagering, gambling, nightclubs, firearms and weapons, and NC-17-rated motion pictures, among others.” Mr. Hacker also co-chairs the Coalition for the Prevention of Alcohol Problems, a coalition of temperance groups.

Sports Biz, a blog, noted “The Mountain West Conference does not carry beer commercials on its network, the mtn. (Mountain West Sports Network) It also doesn’t carry commercials for Viagra and similar products, which is a blessing for those few people who actually can receive the mtn. Declining Viagra and Cialis commercials would be a public service that I recommend that the Big Ten Network and the WWLS adopt immediately. Football and basketball fans would be forever grateful.”

It is doubtful that the labels at the top of this posting would have played a role in the ongoing controversy over beer advertising. The image at the bottom however is a different story.

Oktoberfest – Part 2

Monday, October 4th, 2010

I had my Oktoberfest dinner on Saturday. It was a lot of fun.  One of the guests was from Berlin, which gave the evening a ring of authenticity. We sampled four beers. Two were lagers – the Spaten Marzen and the Victory Prima Pils. We had one ale, Smuttynose Pumpkin Ale and one stout, Left Hand Milk Stout.

The Marzen went very well with the cabbage and bacon dish. It is a very smooth beer with a nice flavor. The Victory Pills was very light in color but had more taste and flavor than most lagers I have drunk. We drank it with chicken schnitzel. If Budweiser tasted like that, it would be a lot better.

The Pumpkin Ale is very nice with a moderate amount of hops flavor.  I actually like Dogfish Head Punkin Ale better. It has a more pronounced pumpkin flavor.  The warm potato salad I served with it had a tangy flavor so the ale was a nice contrast.

I served the stout with dessert, which was an apple cake. It was the best stout I have ever tasted and a very good flavored beer; several of my guests were surprised that you could serve beer with dessert.

I had never done a beer pairing meal before so this was very interesting. Although I think you could make too much of it, I can see that certain types of beer go very well with certain foods.  I would not want to see beer drinking become as complicated as wine. The final decision should be one of taste.

Last year, when we were in New York, I wrote a post about fall beers. This was the picture I used.

oktoberfest-beer

Oktoberfest – Part 1

Thursday, September 30th, 2010

Oktoberfest began on September 18 and will end this Sunday, October 3. I am having an Oktoberfest dinner with beer pairings on Saturday night. It is the 200th anniversary of Oktoberfest. The first Oktoberfest was a wedding celebration for Prince Ludwig and his wife. There was horseracing and some beer. In 1896 beer tents were added and the modern celebration was born.

oktoberfest2010

I found a sample dinner at the site, kitchendaily and modified their suggestions. The first course is sautéed cabbage with bacon. The beer will be a Spaten Marzen. Marzen is the quintessential Oktoberfest beer. It is lager, which is brewed during the spring – Marzen means March and then stored underground – lager means store – and served in the fall. Spaten is one of the oldest Marzens.

The main course is chicken schnitzel and German potato salad. The beers are Victory Prima Pils; pilsner is also a lager beer, and Smutty Nose Pumpkin Ale.  Interestingly the Victory cost more than the Spaten, which is imported. I chose pumpkin ale because I thought the sweetness of that style of beer would go well with the potato salad, which has a vinegar dressing.

The dessert is an apple cake that I will serve with Left Hand Milk Stout. Stouts are made with roasted grains; this beer adds some milk sugar to balance the stout.

In planning the dinner, I wanted to have several different kinds of beers. I’ll let you know how it all turns out.